"Climat" rau Nadia thiab lwm cov naj hoom uas cov poj niam Soviet npau suav txog

2024 Tus sau: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 00:06

Niaj hnub no nws yog kev coj ua los hu cov poj niam Soviet uas tsis raug tua. Txawm li cas los xij, ntau tus neeg tseem nco qab cov npe naj hoom los ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd thiab nco ntsoov tias nws tsis yooj yim li nrhiav cov analogues hauv qhov zoo thiab ua tau ntev. Tej zaum nws zoo li yog vim peb tab tom tham txog lub sijhawm "thaum cov ntoo loj", lossis qhov tseeb "ua ntej txhua yam yog ntuj." Niaj hnub no, cov fwj tseeb ntawm cov neeg nyiam Soviet, Bulgarian thiab Baltic naj hoom kim heev, thiab nws tsis yooj yim mus nrhiav lawv, tab sis cov neeg sau khoom thiab cov neeg nyiam nostalgic muab cov nyiaj no yam tsis tos, vim tias cov ntxhiab tsw muaj qhov tshwj xeeb uas ua rau nco txog hnub ploj mus los ntawm

Liab Moscow

Txawm tias cov uas tsis tau yug los hauv USSR paub lub npe ntawm cov naj hoom no. Nws tau paub tias qhov no yog "ntxhiab nrog keeb kwm", txawm hais tias muaj ntau ntau yam ntawm cov "dab neeg" niaj hnub no: raws li ib qho ntawm cov kev xaiv, cov tshuaj tsw qab no tau tsim rau Empress Maria Feodorovna los ntawm "tus tub ntawm Fab Kis xab npum -maker "Lub Yim Hli Michel nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawm 300th hnub tseem ceeb ntawm Romanov dynasty. -" Tus Empress Txoj Kev Nyiam Pob "tsis meej pem nrog cov ntxhiab qub" Bouquet of Empress ", lossis nws feem ntau sib cav tias" Krasnaya Moskva "tau tshwm sim hauv ntau lawm tom qab, nyob rau nruab nrab-1920s, nrog kev koom tes ntawm tus poj niam ntawm yav tom ntej Tib Neeg Txoj Cai Commissar VM Molotov Polina Zhemchuzhina.

Lub raj mis nto moo tau yees ntau tshaj ib zaug. Raws li ib qho ntawm cov lus dab neeg, Lyubov Orlova yog tus nyiam qhuas ntawm Krasnaya Moskva, tab sis kev txhaj tshuaj qub tsis tuaj yeem qhia peb ntxhiab ntawm lub hnub qub Soviet screen. Tab sis hauv "Cov Ntxhais", ntawm lub txaj pw hauv lub tsev so, peb tuaj yeem pom lub thawv liab uas paub, thiab tseem pom hauv "Pokrovskie rooj vag" thaum "Red Moscow" yuav tsum tau nthuav tawm rau yav tom ntej niam txiv, txij li qhov no yog nws nyiam naj hoom. Qhov tsw qab nrog lub npe qhia tau dhau los ua lub cim tiag tiag ntawm lub sijhawm, thiab niaj hnub no, rov txhim kho lub sijhawm ntawm USSR, tsis yog tus thawj coj nkaus xwb tsis quav ntsej cov ncauj lus no.

Paj yeeb liab

Hauv Soviet Union, nws yog ib txwm tso tawm cov npe tshiab ntawm cov khoom siv dav dav rau hnub tseem ceeb ntawm kev ua koob tsheej ntawm kev hloov pauv. Hauv kev hwm ntawm lub kaum ib xyoos ntawm Kev Hloov Kho Lub Kaum Hli Ntuj, Novaya Zarya lub Hoobkas tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab uas ua ke nrog qhov txawv ntawm sab hnub tuaj thiab cua ntawm kev ywj pheej. Lub tswv yim ntawm cov naj hoom muaj pes tsawg leeg thiab lub npe tau tshoov siab los ntawm kev ua las voos los ntawm Reingold Glier. "Red Poppy" nyob rau theem qhia txog txoj hmoo ntawm tus neeg seev cev Suav Tao Hoa, uas tau hlub nrog tus thawj ntawm lub nkoj Soviet. Qhov kawg ntawm tus neeg dhia tes, lub cev ntawm tus ntxhais uas tau muab nws lub neej rau nws tus hlub tau da dej nrog paj yeeb paj liab, thiab cov neeg txom nyem suav, tso tawm ntawm kev ua qhev ntawm cov neeg Europe, txeeb chaw nres nkoj. Cov tshuaj tsw qab tau tsim zoo li yog ua raws txoj haujlwm no thiab tau ntau caum xyoo tseem yog cov paj tsw qab uas nyiam tshaj plaws ntawm cov poj niam Soviet. Tus sau "Red Poppy" yog David Garber, kaum xyoo tom qab ntawd nws tau dhau los ua tus thawj coj txuj ci (tus thawj coj zoo) ntawm "New Dawn".

"Manon" cov

Lwm qhov ntxhiab los ntawm David Garber sib txawv hauv kev xav - xyoo 1930s, lub neej nyob hauv lub tebchaws tau hloov pauv, thiab cov neeg tshiab xav tau me ntsis kev xav me ntsis naj hoom. Cov kis las thiab cov hluas tau nyob rau hauv vogue, yog li cov naj hoom tshiab tau sib txawv los ntawm cov ntawv sau tshiab. Naj hoom "Manon" tau txiav txim siab "ntev -livers" ntawm cov naj hoom Soviet - lawv tau tsim kom txog thaum xyoo 1980s, txawm hais tias nws tau ntseeg tias tom qab tso tawm tsis tuaj yeem sib piv nrog thawj, thawj tus.

Kub ntawm Scythians

Lwm cov lus dab neeg Soviet ntxhiab, keeb kwm uas tseem suav nrog cov lus dab neeg. Raws li ib qho ntawm cov qauv, cov naj hoom tau tsim nyob rau lub sijhawm nyuaj tom qab ua tsov rog rau peb lub tebchaws, thiab qhov txawv ntawm cov khoom qub tau dhau los ua qhov ua tsis taus pa ntawm huab cua ntshiab rau cov tib neeg nkees ntawm kev txaus ntshai ntawm kev ua tsov ua rog. Txawm li cas los xij, raws li lwm qhov, cov tshuaj tsw qab no tau tsim ntau tom qab, xyoo 1988, thiab tau txais koob meej tom qab qhov tsis txaus ntseeg. Nws yog qhov txaus siab tias "Zlato ntawm Scythians" tseem tab tom tsim, tab sis nws txawv ntawm thawj qhov piv txwv, vim tias nyob hauv Soviet Union, cov khoom xyaw ntuj feem ntau yog siv rau kev tsim khoom.

Tete-a-txi

Cov naj hoom, uas tau tshwm sim nyob rau xyoo 1980s tam sim ntawd tau dhau los ua qhov khoom kim heev ua tsaug rau kev tshaj tawm kev tshaj tawm stunt: cov ntawv sau "Moscow-Paris" tau nthuav tawm ntawm daim ntawv lo, uas txhais tau tias yog kev sib koom ua ke thiab koom tes nrog Fabkis cov tshuaj tsw qab. Qhov tseeb, qhov no txhais tau li hauv qab no: USSR ib txwm yuav cov khoom xyaw rau kev lag luam naj hoom nyob txawv teb chaws, tab sis txij thaum nruab nrab xyoo 1970s, lawv hloov los ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab yooj yim mus yuav cov khoom sib xyaw ua ke. Ntawm cov chaw tsim khoom hauv tsev, lawv tau coj los ua lub hauv paus thiab ob peb daim ntawv tshiab tau ntxiv, - cov qauv tau txais uas nyob ze rau European, tab sis tib lub sijhawm tib neeg. Qhov no yog li cas cov tshuaj tsw qab "Tet-a-tête" tau tshwm sim hauv xyoo 1978, vim los ntawm kev sib koom ua haujlwm ntawm "Soyuzparfumprom" thiab Parisian tuam txhab "Marbel". Lub raj mis tau muag tawm hauv thawj teev ntawm lawv lub ntsej muag ntawm lub txee, thiab ntau xyoo qhov kev txwv txwv no tseem yog qhov kev hlub thiab tsis tuaj yeem ua tau ntawm cov poj niam Soviet. Tom qab ntawd, cov naj hoom pib tsim ua ntau ntau.

Silver Lily ntawm lub hav

Lily ntawm lub hav yog ib qho ntawm ob peb lub paj uas nws cov roj yam tseem ceeb tsis tuaj yeem ua kom tawg, yog li txhua qhov "lilies ntawm hav" hauv ntiaj teb cov tshuaj tsw qab tau tsim los dag - txij li pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, European zam tsev tau sim tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab no., ua ke sau ntawv ntawm bergamot, lilac, ylang-ylang thiab jasmine … Xyoo 1950, Bella Gutsait, tus thawj coj zoo ntawm Northern Lights lub Hoobkas, tsim cov cim tshwj xeeb nrog paj thiab sau ntawv ntsuab, hu ua Forest Lily of the Valley, thiab xyoo 1952 cov kws tshawb fawb tau pab cov tshuaj tsw qab - pab pawg tshawb fawb los ntawm All -Union Research Institute ntawm Khoom cua thiab Ntuj Cov Tshuaj tsw qab tau txais cov khoom sib xyaw uas hu ua lilialdehyde. Ib me ntsis tom qab, cov lus dab neeg "Lily ntawm lub hav nyiaj" tau tsim los ntawm nws lub hauv paus.

- hais cov kws tshawb fawb ntawm Soviet perfumery. "Qhov muag muag, txias thiab ntxhiab tsw ntxhiab" yeej lub siab ntawm cov poj niam Soviet rau ntau xyoo lawm. Cov naj hoom tau nrov heev tias, ntxiv rau Sab Qab Teb Teeb, tom qab ntawd lawv tau pib tsim tawm ntawm lub chaw tsim khoom naj hoom hauv Nikolaev. Nws muaj peev xwm hais tias yog ib qho laj thawj rau nws cov khoom lag luam loj yog nws tus nqi qis, tab sis txawm li cas los xij, "Silver Lily of the Valley" tseem nco nrog kev sov siab thiab nostalgia.

Kab lis kev cai rau pawg neeg

Cov pej xeem muaj kev coj noj coj ua zoo tau coj tuaj rau hauv USSR, yog li cov npe ntawm cov naj hoom sib xyaw ua ke feem ntau yog siv rau cov ntaub ntawv, suab paj nruag lossis lwm yam kev kos duab. Rau 150th hnub tseem ceeb ntawm Pushkin, cov tshuaj tsw qab Soviet tau tsim muaj cov ntsiab lus zoo uas cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm cov ntoo tshauv tau sib tshuam nrog tart patchouli thiab bergamot. Naj hoom "Poj huab tais ntawm Spades" tau hlub los ntawm cov poj niam laus, lawv yog lub cim ntawm kev loj hlob.

Cov naj hoom "Ballet" thiab "Recognition" kuj tseem nrov nyob hauv USSR - qhov kawg tau mob siab rau ua yeeb yam thiab ua yeeb yam. Tab sis thawj lub npe "Tej zaum …" tau tshwm sim ua tsaug rau jazz. Xyoo 1950, tus ntaus suab paj nruag European zoo tshaj plaws Eddie Rosner thiab nws pab neeg tau sau ob peb zaj nkauj rau Carnival Night, thiab ib qho ntawm cov pab pawg sib sau ua ke, Tej zaum, tau ua zoo li no hauv tebchaws Poland uas cov tshuaj tsw qab tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab nrog lub npe zoo sib xws. Tom qab ntawd, lub npe nrov pib tsim hauv USSR.

Latvian perfumery

Bulgarian thiab Polish naj hoom tau muaj txiaj ntsig zoo los ntawm cov poj niam Soviet, tsuas yog Baltic naj hoom tuaj yeem muab piv nrog lawv. Lawv tau txiav txim siab ua kom zoo dua qub thiab muaj kuab dua li cov khoom lag luam ntawm "Novaya Zarya" thiab "Northern Lights", tshwj xeeb tshaj yog vim nws nyuaj dua kom tau txais lawv. Ib qho ntawm kev ntshaw tshaj plaws tau suav tias yog "Secret of Riga" hom "Dzintars". Cov naj hoom tau tsim tawm xyoo 1987 thiab tau qhuas heev ntawm kev sib tw thoob ntiaj teb hauv Paris. Zoo li ntau qhov kev ua tiav cov naj hoom los ntawm yav dhau los, lawv tseem raug tsim tawm hnub no.

Tiag tiag Fabkis naj hoom

Hauv zaj yeeb yaj kiab "Irony of Fate", tau txais Khoom Plig Xyoo Tshiab los ntawm Hippolytus, Nadia hais tias: "Fab Kis naj hoom tiag! Lawv kim! " Tus heroine tau tuav lub thawv xiav thiab dawb ntawm lub npe nrov "Climat". Lawv tau kim heev, txawm tias hauv khw muag khoom lawv yuav tsum tau them los ntawm nees nkaum rau plaub caug rubles rau lawv, thiab tib lub sijhawm nws nyuaj heev los nrhiav cov naj hoom tuaj. Cov ntxhiab tsw qab tau tsim los ntawm Fab Kis naj hoom Gerard Gaupy xyoo 1967, lawv tau tsim rau ntau caum xyoo thiab yog kev zoo siab tiag tiag rau cov poj niam Soviet.

Ntxiv nrog rau cov khoom qab zib uas tau ntxim nyiam, cov poj niam Soviet tau npau suav txog ntau yam khoom tsis txaus, uas lawv yuav tsum tau caum qab hauv USSR.